“Can we complete this traverse in 5 days? I have to be in Lahore on Sunday” Umer asked Javed (our guide) anxiously. Javed noded with uncertainty. “People complete it in 6 days.”
Day 1: Lahore to Kumrat, Dojanga.
We, three friends, Noman, Umer, and I (Danyal) unsure of whether to explore Siran to Allai valley or Kumrat to Chitral via Thalo Pass left Lahore on 6th July. Having the details of both treks, it was decided to go for Kumrat to Chitral traverse. So the journey began as we turned our car towards Swat motorway. Driving all night, through the town of Timargira and along the scenic Dir river we reached Thal town early morning. We had called our guide Javed and porter Noor-ul-Amin from Kalam. But due to some transport issue, they couldn’t reach Kumrat in the morning. Now, we had ample time to sleep and refresh ourselves in Thall. Thall is a small town, also known as the gateway of Kumrat valley. The major attraction of Thall valley is the Thall wooden mosque, a masterpiece of architecture in itself. We fulfilled our sleep while Javed and Noor reached at 2pm. After Javed and Noor had their lunch, we started our journey towards Dojanga, the last jeepable point of Kumrat valley. To our luck, after Kala Chasma, the glacier blocked the jeep track. The jeep couldn’t go beyond this point so we had to hike till Dojanga. This was a good 45mins warmup hike in light rainfall for next full day trek till Thalo BC coming up. At sunset, we set our camps at Dojanga along the river, while Javed and Noor gathered dry wood to make fire.
Day 2: Dojanga to Thallo Basecamp.
The next day, we woke up early. Packed our tents, did a quick breakfast, and started the trek at 7.30AM. The first point after Dojanga is Charote Banda. Banda in local language means meadows. Charote Banda is a beautiful meadow with water streams flowing through it. From Dojanga to Charot Banda, it is an easy walk and took us 2.5hrs to reach there. After another 2.5hrs plain hike, we reached Isgalo Banda, another scenic and beautiful meadow. After Isgalo Banda, we started to gain gradual altitude. Walking for another 2 hrs, we reached Gor Shahi, the last human settlement in Kumrat valley. I distributed chocolates and biscuits among local kids. In courtesy, they served me with lasi and packed some for my friends ahead of me. Never had we had this delicious chati ki lasi before. Our next point to reach was Shahzor banda, the last meadow of Kumrat valley, it took us almost two hours to reach there. From Shahzor Banda to Shahzore lake, it is another one hour ascending hike. Shazore lake is a beautiful and pristine glacial lake, not many Kumrat tourists visit it as it is about a day hike with a camp at Dojanga. To reach today’s camping spot, Thallo basecamp, we had to cross the glacial water stream of Shazore lake and walk for another 45mins. We crossed the stream with the help of Noor-ul-Amin. Finally, reached out campsite at 4.30PM, after nine hours of trek. Nouman cooked soupy noodles for everyone, whereas, Javaid and Noor made fire from woods. After maghrib, it started to rain with heavy winds and lightning. It continued to rain till 2am in night. At one point, it seemed that we would not be able to continue the trek and will have to return to Kumrat the next day. Umer, the most anxious of all, had made his mind to return the next day while others decided to wait till the daylight.
Thalo Basecamp to end of Zaghi Chat.
Today, it was the second day of our trek. Fortunately, the weather got clear in the morning and we decided to continue our trek. Here, I would like to mention Javed who successfully convinced and motivated Umer to complete the trek and not go back from half of the trek which would take one and a half-day. The trait, as I have observed, is not very common in other guides of northern areas. We started our trek at 7.30am for Thallo Pass. We knew it was going to strenuous day today as we had to cross Thalo Pass (4220m) and then trek the whole day on glaciers and snow. The pass is a navigable route through a mountain range or over a ridge. Thallo pass makes a narrow steep corridor with no descend. At 11am we were on the top of the pass. Ate some snacks on top, took group photos, and started our journey along the Zaghi Chat lake. Zaghi in Chitral language means long whereas, chat means lake. It is a long lake with glaciers and snowy mountains on its side. The lake is divided into three parts. We had our plan to camp after Zaghi chat 3. This day, our whole trek was on snow and boulders beside the beautiful Zaghi chat. It snowed for a few minutes too. At 8pm, I reached the campsite. The campsite today was above 4000m, so could not found any wood for the fire. Noor prepared tea for everyone which was truly a blessing after a hectic trek day. We ate dinner and went to sleep in our camps.
Zaghi Chat to Bashkargol Chat.
We woke up early in the morning. Today our plan was to reach Bashkargol chat crossing Mastuj river. After a quick breakfast, we started our trek around 6.30am. Trekking alongside glacier we reached plain sands. Witnessed Yoks and reached Shepherd hut who served us with tea. Continuing our journey we came across another large herd of goats whose shepherd offered us milk. Then we came across the gushing Mastuj river, Javaid and Noor fixed the rope to get us across the river. After crossing the Mastuj river a couple of times it was an easy walk on sand towards the lake. One can see the lake after crossing the river. We reached the beautiful Bashkargol lake at 2pm. Bashkargol is a big alpine lake with ripples that gives it a feel of the sea. We took some photos and hiked towards the opposite end of the lake, where we had to set out camps. Today, it was the last camping night of our trip. Javed and Noor prepared fire and made bread for everyone. We ate dinner while watching the beautiful sunset. After, dinner I went to an early sleep.
Bashkargol to Haschin, Sorlaspur.
Today was the last and fourth day of our trek. Our plan was to start early and reach Sorlaspur village of Chitral. The hike today was full of ascends and descends with the sun right above our heads. The most exciting thing for today was crossing the Kachakani river and reaching the beautiful Sor Laspur village. Rest it was all hike in dry terrains with having a sunburn. Overall, to me, it was the toughest day of all four days, as we had to hike about 24km. At 6pm we reached Sorlaspur where the jeep was waiting for us. The jeep took us to our hotel named Siray e Shandur in Harchin, the village of Laspur. Saray e Shandur is on a half an hour drive from Sorlaspur and has all the basic facilities. It felt heavenly to bath with warm water and dine in after five days in pure wilderness.
Haschin, Chitral to Lahore.
The next day, we started our journey back to Lahore at 5am. Our car had already reached Sorlaspur from Kumrat. We had our brunch in Chitral and dinner in Abottabad where we had to drop Nouman. After 26 hours drive, we reached Lahore at 8am the next day.
The whole trek was truly a joint team effort along with the support and guidance of Javaid and Noor that we were able to complete the trek. It was, indeed, one of the best trek of my life. Javaid and Noor are really cooperative. Javaid has done all the major treks of Swat, Kalam, and Kumrat valley multiple times including Kachakani Pass, Thalo Pass, Kandia Pass, Manial Pass, Jahaz Banda Pass, and Dadrili Pass. You can also contact him for short treks to Kandol lake, Pari lake, Spinkhor lake, Izmis lake, or Desan meadows. Javaid contact: 0311 9692856 If he is unreachable, you can contact his brother Sadam at 0342 8927174.
Also, I would like to mention, Muhammad Saqib Khan, currently serving as AC Sheringal Dir Upper, who is working tirelessly to promote tourism in the Kumrat valley and facilitate tourists. He has established an International helpline (Tourist Facilitation Number – TFN: +92-346-6493006) under Tourism Strategy 2020 for Kumrat valley & Dir Upper. Tourists can have information about the valley or register any type of complaint in Kumrat valley on this number to Kumrat valley administration.
Contact of Saray e Shandur in Harchin, Laspur
Asif Iqbal: 0345 4496331
Abdul Khaliq Yaftali: 0345 4281806
P.S:- Only 4×4 can go till Dojanga valley in Kumrat. Two wheels can go till Thal only. In Chitral, only 4×4 can reach Sorlaspur. Two-wheeler car is not recommended to take to Sorlaspur, but should be parked at Boni.
If you have any queries about this trek you can ask here in the comment section or email at danyal.abd92@gmail.com.
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